We named this newsletter after two of the African Wilderness’s most powerful voices. The Elephant’s low rumble may travel for up to 30 km through the earth where it may be felt through the trunk and feet of distant elephants. The roar of the Lion into the cool morning or evening air carries for many kilometres. The African Wilderness conveys her messages, and we are excited to share that voice to the world.
The Equinox month and the change of seasons, and our wish is that this may bring the shift that brings you ever closer to you living your best life.
The Okavango Delta
Right now the Okavango Delta is doing what it has always done, and doing it on a scale that takes the breath away. The whole region experienced very good rains which filled many rivers, waterways and flood planes, with many roads becoming submerged. The Angolan highlands also experienced above average rainfall and the flood waters have been slowly making their way south through the pan handle, spreading out to raise the already full waterways and rivers. The present levels may well be the highest in 50 to 100 years. Lake Ngami and the western side of the delta is also receiving water after a long dry spell. The Khwai river is still rising, filling the vast dusty plains of the Mababwe depression into its own water filled delta. Hippo pools, thousands of water birds and an abundance of life abound. What a sight to witness!
Safari to Central Kalahari, Moremi and the Mababwe.
What was originally planned for earlier in the year was then rescheduled for late July due to the unprecedented water levels. We began our safari in Maun, followed by three delightful nights in the Central Kalahari at the Letiahah campsite on the far end of Deception valley. The winter months are not ideal for game but the vast vistas and unprecedented sense of wild open spaces across the vast pans and vegetated dune fields, make this area one of our favourite wilderness destinations. We had a chance sighting of a leopard, numerous Bat-eared foxes, jackals, springboks and kudu. We expected to see more Gemsbok, but instead had a few good sightings of giraffe. We encountered three lions next to the road one afternoon, but for the most part the nights were quiet, with only the occasional jackal cry. What is incredible is that all the creatures living here do not depend on surface water for their survival.
After returning from Central we overnighted in Maun before heading to Moremi to the Zini, Black Pools area. Where previously we could travel 15 to 20 km to the west to explore the flood planes and tree islands of this stunning area, our tracks were constantly blocked by water. During the two nights there we had lovely sightings of elephants, water birds and well fed antelope. We moved camp to the triangle between Moremi and Chobi and spent the next couple of days exploring up and down the Mababwe depression. Hundreds of water birds lined the waterways and the vast marshlands extending as far as the eye could see to the east. The bounty of all life here is quite something to witness. We watched two cheetah who unsuccessfully chased down a group of zebras in the long grass. Watching small groups of elephants slowly walking across this vast plane towards us felt surreal, as if they had just emerged out of the earth. We spent hours here, mesmerised and captivated by the shear beauty and bounty of the African wilderness landscape.
Our last night in camp came with an unexpected surprise. Just as we were about to sit down for dinner we heard zebras running and hyenas chattering as they ran past our camp. It was too dark to see, but we soon heard the snarls and growls of a lion kill. Not 100 m from camp on the open plane we saw 10 lions feeding on a wildebeest, the hyenas were still circling and calling. Deep into the night the feeding sounds continued, yet when morning came and we were able to drive out to where the kill had been, we saw no sign of lion, hyenas or the carcass. If we hadn’t been right there and been witness to what had happened, there was no sign that this drama had ever unfolded. The African Wilderness again filling us with wonder and awe, how privileged we are.
Wisdom from the African Wilderness
Old roads and new ways.
It certainly feels like the floods of the Okavango and surrounding areas are a lesson for us. Our old, well used life pathways often seem suddenly impassable. We throw up our hands in dismay, or sometimes pushing through to only getting bogged down in the dros. Exhausted we eventually come to a calm that asks, “where to now?” We have found that our usual go-tos offer little, and a deeper realisation begins to unfold. As we let go of our frenetic mind we start to reach deeper within our being to a quiet power that holds us so compassionately and lovingly. The gifts of this incredible natural flooding seem echoed in our own hearts and minds right now. We may now being asked to look deeply into our lives and choose a new course that is more aligned with what we are, or follow through on living our most loving and powerful life with courage and fortitude.
Synchronicity.
On route to Matsweri Gate on the eastern side of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is down the cut line from Motopi. We had travelled about 2 hours down this sandy track when we decided to have a pit stop and tea break. No sooner had we stopped and clambered out of the vehicle when a Bushman couple emerged out of nowhere. Being as we all were accustomed to being approached for food or money by the poor in Africa wherever one went, we were mildly irritated. Then it struck us, this delightful couple had been walking since early morning on their journey to the nearest outpost, as we too had been traveling for hours. The synchronicity of meeting exactly at that time, that place, was beyond any statistical probability. We shared our tea and biscuits with the couple, who had brought such a joyfulness and heart felt communion sharing. Soon we were both on our ways again, probably never again to cross paths again. The African wilderness is an abundant and constant source of unexpected treasures and synchronicities when we are able to disengage our searching, expecting and desiring minds.
Interspecies interaction.
Watching the interplay between animals in the African wilderness has always fascinated us. For the most part animals feel completely relaxed with one another and allow each other to come into close proximity with each other. It has always been a tug at our hearts that we have become something that animals and birds tend to move away from. Twice on our last safari this pattern seemed to be different, with animals actually approaching us and watching us. A lone wildebeest walked across the pan to come to about 50m away from us to watch us have lunch. A few days later on the Mababwe we had a giraffe female come very close to where we were having lunch to watch us enjoy our entire meal with an unwavering interest. What we so appreciate about when we are in the African wilderness is when the animals, birds and beings come to us and engage with these humans that hold so much love in their hearts for them. Love certainly opens the way, and we can feel the shift when we let go of our predatory quest to tick some crazy checklist, and actually encounter the animal, bird, tree, insect; and witness the essence and wonder of the sacred life before us. We may awaken then to our own sacred essence, recognises this in all the life that surrounds us.
With a warm sunset farewell for now
Andrew & Yola
African Wilderness Wisdom